One of the main factors to consider when designing a garden is the way in which you create a path between the beds and borders. When the house does not stand squarely within its boundaries, or when the garden boundaries are straight but not rectangular, as in a plot which tapers in the direction of its length, the problem requires some special consideration; but usually means may be devised to bring the garden details into harmony with these disconcerting factors.

Paths in a garden exist for utility. That is so in a large measure, but they have a further value, in linking together the other elements of the garden. Moreover, a path is an objective invitation to walk through the garden and enjoy its beauties. A garden without a path would hardly satisfy the eye. On the other hand, nothing is so wasteful of space, or so irritating to the eye, as a multitude of paths cutting up the garden into small compartments and destroying the breadth of the picture.

There are two principal points in every path: the beginning and the end. Paths that start nowhere and end at a blank wall suggest purposelessness. It may be taken as an axiom that the principal path should commence at some point conveniently near, and preferably facing, the door by which the house inmates enter their garden. Its direction should be through the flowers, and it should have a natural termination, or final destination.

The best terminal to a garden path is the summer house, and when that feature is non-existent, an arbor, or some other erection, should serve the purpose. Failing that, the path might terminate into a patio, in which a bench, sundial, or patio statuary might be placed. It would be better to end it at a tool house or garage, or even at a potting shed, than to allow it to stop suddenly nowhere.

All deviations in the direction of the path should be made at right angles. Diagonal paths are not permissible. They never look well in a small garden. The value of a path is mainly in proportion to its utility. After rain or heavy dew the garden would be uninviting without a path. It also preserves the turf from traffic, which would soon wear it to bareness. This sums up the path's usefulness. According to many handbooks on gardening the smaller the garden the more the need for the "winding path," which, it is claimed, adds to the "apparent length of the garden."

Other experts on the other hand do not hold with this claiming that any such result could follow in a garden the boundaries of which are visible on every side. The winding path in a small plot serves only to cut up the space into irregularly shaped areas, the treatment of which will tax the skill of the planner to deal with it successfully. Also the additional amount of gravel surface reduces the space that could be productive flower ground.

The width of the path must bear some relation to the scale of the garden. In comparatively small plots, economy of space suggests that it should be the minimum compatible with its purpose. You should not have less than three feet for the width of a principal path under any circumstances. In larger gardens greater width may be permitted, as there is a certain distinction and dignity in a broad walk when all else is in proportion. In a half-acre plot a width of five feet might be desirable.

You should also pay attention to the material of the path, especially its color and texture. Red gravel, coarse sand, bricks, and tiles are warm in tone, contrasting well with the grass and harmonizing with the flowers and their foliage. Granite chips, cinders, tarred gravel, blue stone, and cement are cold and uninviting, and should only be used when other materials are unobtainable.

Red gravel (of the right kind, which binds well), bricks, tiles, tarred gravel, and cement make paths with a close, hard surface. Sand or pebbles, stone chips, cinders, and blue stone never bind thoroughly, and therefore make paths with a loose surface, which, apart from the unpleasant feeling underfoot, implies that much loose material will adhere to the boots and be carried on to the grass, with disastrous results to the blades of the mower.