Each walkway in your garden should be about eighteen inches wide with a grass plot between. They are sometimes built twelve inches and twenty- four inches, but the first is too narrow and the latter unnecessarily wide. Remember to leave space for large fountains or any other garden decorations you plan to have.

The ramp leading to the driveway should never be narrower than overall width of the driveway. It is better, when ramps and driveways do not join but are separated by a sidewalk, to have the narrow part or throat of the ramp equal to or bur slightly wider than the width of the runways. This will give the effect of continuity of the side lines.

The width of the opening along the street curb will vary according to local conditions. Make observations and measurements to determine what a driver will do when turning off the street on to the ramp. Eight feet six inches should be the minimum clearance allowable and ten to twelve feet is preferable. In laying out a ramp it is well to be liberal so far as service is concerned at the same time heeding the dictates of esthetics which demand the least possible display of cement.

For ordinary cases and to make the ramp pleasing to the eye, the opening width of twelve feet is sufficient for an approach from either direction, and the throat opening, made equal to the overall width of the driveway, gives the correct appearance when you view it from the front. The side lines of the ramp come into the line of the walk at a right angle. For the most pleasing results this is essential in normal cases.

The ramp curbs should be made to articulate on easy curves with the street curb. A bad joint or a sharp angle where the two come together is certain to spoil the appearance of the work. The track of the car as it approaches and enters the grounds is on a curve, and it is only rational to curve the side lines of the ramp. When driveways are wide enough, any driver can keep on them while backing out, and curbs are not needed as a guide.

You can also have gravel paths along the edge of the driveway and throughout the garden. In creating gravel paths, a lot depends on the quality of the gravel that you use. There are gravels that are little better than shingle, being almost or entirely devoid of binding material. Gravels of this kind will never make a firm path, whereas a path of loose pebbles is not a good idea because of the possibility of the smaller stones being carried on to the grass.

After you stake out the course you want the path to take, you must excavate the soil to a depth of about twelve inches or until you reach a firm bottom. You have to take the material that you excavate away. Fill the trench with rubble, brick rubbish, or other light material, to provide drainage and to ensure a firm foundation.

Over this may be put a layer of shingle or coarse gravel screenings, say three inches thick, which should be formed with the rake to a curved surface or camber in cross-section. The gravel may then be evenly distributed over the surface to a depth of from two to three inches, care being taken to keep the line of its crown straight in the direction of the path's length, but preserving the camber of the layer beneath.

After liberal watering the roller should then be put to work. The free use of water at this stage is important to success, because it ensures the subsequent consolidation of the gravel and keeps it from adhering to the roller. Take note of the action of the roller to determine if you are using the correct amount of water.

The roller should carry before it a wave of creamy liquid, a mixture of water with the binding constituent of the gravel. The roller should also be a moderately heavy one. After you have a fair surface on the path, you should not use it for at least twenty-four hours. It would be ideal if there was no rain during the period of time as well.

Cinder paths are dismal things in the flower garden, though they have a sphere of usefulness in the vegetable plot. They also may be made as directed for gravel paths. Tar Paths when well made are very durable, but their color is against them, and in hot weather they are apt to become soft on the surface. The same applies to asphalt. There are tar paths made from stony constituent which is a gray material, probably limestone, not altogether unsightly after the surface layer of tar had disappeared. You should not flank them with impervious material or water will collect at the sides.