Light, sandy soils suffer from drought, and involve labor and expense in heavy manuring. Much may be done by the gardener to improve a naturally undesirable soil. Light soils may be treated with clay or muck, and clay soils with sand, ashes, and other light, porous materials.

By these additions the nature of the surface layer may be modified and rendered more amenable to tillage; but no treatment of the surface will meet the case if the subsoil is unsuitable. These operations necessarily imply outlay, which in a large garden may be a heavy one. It is therefore advisable, when the purchaser has a choice of sites, to select one on which the soil is neither too heavy nor too light.

Another point in the selection of a site is to avoid made ground the composition of which may be anything from gas lime to meat tins. A site of this kind would afford many unpleasant surprises to the gardener, and might be perfectly hopeless for horticulture. Made ground which has long remained undisturbed - and it is not often offered for sale when newly made - is generally so thickly covered with surface growth that its character is not superficially apparent.

Here, the trial trench suggests itself as a wise precaution. Peat land does not constitute a good site, because the existence of peat implies water-logging. Drainage, however, may be effectual in converting it into a good garden, always provided that the nature of the subsoil permits of draining it thoroughly. Use of a garden planter can serve as a cost effective solution.

Land which has recently been in cultivation, either as arable or garden ground, is in most cases preferable to pasture; because it has a greater depth of surface soil, and constant working and manuring have brought it to the best consistency for the gardener's purpose.

On the other hand, pasture has certain advantages. There may be some additional labor needed to bring the soil into working condition, but against that it may be possible to preserve part of the pasture as grass, and thus avoid the necessity for turfing or sowing.

Aspect - in gardens of small size the question of aspect is perhaps the most important factor for the gardener to consider, because the size of his garden will be measured, not so much by length and breadth as by the amount of space which receives full sunlight. Aspect also is the key to the successful planning of the small garden.

The sun in our latitude passes from east to west by a sweep to the south. Thus the north side of houses, trees, and other fixed objects receive absolutely no sunshine, whilst the east and west sides receive sun only in the morning and evening respectively. These are cardinal facts to be borne in mind by all who undertake to plan a garden of restricted size.

A southern aspect implies that flower culture will be discounted in the space immediately to the rear of the house. But if the gardener has a fancy for good dower effects in the fore-court, or front lawn, he should select a southern aspect.

An eastern or western aspect will give a shady strip on the north side of the house, which may be good or bad according to circumstances. It is best that the shady side should be that on which the kitchen and its offices are situated, thus admitting of flower growing at the side of the house upon which the living rooms look out.