Although you do not need edging tiles for a brick path, to make the brick serve the purpose of the tile edging, you must bring it into proper relation with the ground on either side. You can do this by adopting the rule of making the level of the path at its edges the same as that of the turf (when it skirts a grass plot), and an inch and a half higher than the edge of the border when it comes against the soil. This is shown in this sectional illustration.

The weight of the bricks keeps them in place, but it is well to compact the soil of the border where it comes against the path by ramming, to ensure that the bricks on that side do not come out of place. In the case of very light soils it is a good idea to push a few slates down into the soil at the outer margin of the path, burying them as far as the soil level. If this is done at every fourth brick, and at a joint, the whole path will be fairly secure. Grouting with cement would perhaps be a safer expedient, but is not really necessary.

On sloping ground, where the slope crosses the path, the path may continue the natural slope of the ground, should be made quite flat on the surface, so that water may drain off at the lower margin.

When you have laid the bricks, you can fill up the joints with loose sand, water the filling to carry it down, and then add more filling to bring it level with the surface.

Whatever ideas you may have about pattern-making, you should not allow your fancy to run away with you. Over-elaboration of pattern in so utilitarian a feature as a garden path would be too assertive. The simpler the design the better, though undue repetition is not desirable. However, keep in mind that any pattern you choose to use should be complimentary to any wall fountains or garden benches.

Bearing in mind the fact that bricks measure four inches in width, it is evident that the path width must be a multiple of that dimension, something you should keep in mind when you are deciding on the width of the path.

Composite paths include all paths in which bricks or tiles are used in combination with concrete, stone mosaics, cobble stones, and other like materials. For those in which bricks are used for the framework the preparation of the foundation is the same as for an all-brick path, except that you will only need sand where the bricks meet.

You can get a general idea of this by looking at pictures of other people's gardens. Brickwork sometimes forms the basis of a pattern, which is completed by filling the spaces between its members with another material. Road macadam is an excellent filling, but you can make mortar of builder's sand and Portland cement, using half and half. Fill in the spaces one at a time, first with an inch and a half of fine gravel, and then to the path level with mortar.

Whilst the filling is soft you insert the macadam cubes, fitting them closely into contact and pressing them down, but leaving their upper sides slightly higher than the bricks. When the space is filled, go over it with a board and a mallet, beating down the cubes until they are all level with the bricks. The exuding mortar is transferred to the next space, and that one similarly treated until the whole path is finished.

After allowing an hour for the mortar to partly set, you can wash the path surface with a stiff brush and clean water to remove the mortar which clings to the top of the stone cubes. In twelve hours the path will be set and as firm as a rock. The mortar used for the mosaic work will take hold of the bricks and tie the whole path together.

Another plan you can use, but which has less satisfactory results in its appearance is to fill in the spaces with cement concrete, finishing with a rendering of cement. Cobblestones also make an excellent filling, and give quite an old-world appearance to a path. They should be laid on end in dry sand, leveled by the use of the board and mallet, and then grouted with liquid cement poured amongst them from a pail until it rises above the middle of the pebbles. You can also use coarse rubble blocks, setting them in mortar with the aid of a builder's trowel.