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Foundation Planting Part II

garden statuaryThe planting is then adjusted, depending on whether the path approaches the entrance parallel to the house or does so directly. In most cases, unless there are several steps, the planting is kept low to medium low at the entrance. When planting space at door is narrow, plant a Firethorn or other wall shrub trained on wires or next to garden statuary. One of the very best effects for this L-shaped house having one wing, or for the double L-shaped (with two wings), is a planting which uses a multiple-stemmed tree, such as grey birch, flowering dogwood, sorrel, hawthorn or similar small tree, with an under planting of low evergreens.

This planting is set, in the case of the L-house, at the corner opposite the wing; in the case of the double wing house, it is within the angle opposite that in which the entrance is situated. This planting is balanced in each case with a low mass near the entrance door. As to the rest of the facade, don't use anything that will obstruct the windows or envelope the whole structure. Many modern homes need little more along the base than a low ground cover to keep the mud from splattering the house and facilitate mowing the grass. English ivy, pachysandra, euonymus and similar low growing plants are best.

In regions where fine ornamental evergreens are hardy, there is an increasing tendency to make the base planting highly ornamental. Here azaleas, andromeda, rhododendron, holly and many others are used. Why not? Small lots do not have the space to grow these elsewhere and they give us a "lift" in spring when colorful. The only warning is to beware of the azalea colors against a particular house. Yews, because they are all foliage, offer a good neutralizing medium against which to use azaleas or indeed any other brightly colored plants. The tall house, with larger proportions, can accommodate quite a large belt of this material along the base.

To complete the rest of the foundation planting and make the house fit into its surroundings, the space between the last window and the corner needs treatment. This will depend upon the amount of space. If wide, set a loose-growing plant so that part of it will extend past the corner. As examples, the Rosebay rhododendron looks well against stone or brick, as would any of the hybrids, provided the color is selected. Carolina rhododendron does well here, too, and also against a frame structure. Lilac, grey birch, dogwood or similar plants can be used.

A further reason for this corner planting is to tone down that cut-away feeling one has when looking at the corner of the house, where it ends suddenly. By setting a loose growing plant at this point, the hardness of the line is eased and the corner merges with the softness of the plant. This is certainly more pleasing than the use of the hackneyed, upright evergreen that at best only tends to draw the eye to this point and make you more aware of the fault.

Foundation planting gives yet another service to the house. A long or wide house can be made to appear smaller by planting heavily within this space between the window and the corner. Done on each side where permitted by the construction the house takes on a less spreading aspect. Conversely, a narrow house can be made driveway, in the lawn proper.

This should put the center of the tree at about the center of the garage when you look diagonally across the lawn. The space between the tree and house corner is planted with a medium-sized shrub, evergreen or deciduous. But the shrub is brought in so as not to form a straight line or hedge. Another such shrub is placed on the other side of the tree to further lengthen the covering and form a sort of semi-circle. The house with a roof overhang needs different treatment. Without roof leaders, rain drips off cutting a trench in the soil below the overhang.

Ornamental plants will not long survive this as the soil will wash off the roots. In some cases the plants will rot, or be killed by winter conditions. Besides, mud splatters the side of the house. To remedy this, dig a trench starting at the drip point and extending back to the base of the house. Then fill the trench with gravel. If foundation planting is required, set low plants a foot away from the drip point or gravel edge.

More Landscaping Information
Arranging your Yard Elements of Landscaping
Foundation Planting First Steps
Foundation Planting II Landscaping Planning
Landscaping Beaches Landscaping on a Slope
Patios and Terraces Planting on Patios

 

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