In many cases cover other than grass is desirable. Foundation plantings, banks, and shady places often require other cover. Good covers are dependable, inexpensive and not weedy. It also makes a beautiful setting for patio statuary.

For open sunny areas, banks, or where a large, high cover is wanted, wild trailing rose with its white blossom is most popular; it makes a thick mat of foliage 2 feet off the ground. Also in sunny places, various forms of juniper (e.g., creeping juniper, which is long, low and spreading; Waukegan juniper, blue-gray except in winter, when it is purple, and Sargent juniper, a dense green type) form a mat 8 to 20 feet high. All are attractive either pruned or in a natural state.

For deep or light shade, there are evergreen vines such as the Baltic ivy and pachysandra, periwinkle with its blue-and-white spring flowers, and plumbago which has brilliant blue flowers in the fall. English ivy is good for the shady north side of buildings. For soil too sandy for shrubs there is Scotch broom, which bears yellow blooms. Other covers include hay-scented fern, sandwort, lily of the valley, maiden pink, winter creeper thyme and phlox.

Suggestions are often made for cover which can take the place of grass for lawn, but such covers are usually much more difficult to maintain than grass, even though it is claimed they do not require mowing. Among them are chamomile- a flowering perennial used in medieval times for turf, and while fragrant and soft, they are untidy and weak. Sandwort has rather fleshy leaves with a smooth surface.

Sandwort grows 1 inch long and must be kept mowed to remove the seed stalks. Pearlwort, which has to be watered freely, is only practical in a hot, humid climate; it is a haven for grubs, moths, beetles and sow bugs. Dicondra, a low-creeping herb used on the West Coast for cover, is considered a weed by many, and while easy to grow, does not stand up well against abuse.

Sowing Grass Seed. Every authority states unequivocally that fall is the best time to seed, preferably in September after the months of hottest weather and when there is a good moisture condition. If you seed in the fall the grass will thrive, but, nevertheless, the heaviest sales of seed are in the spring. If you do seed in spring, start as early as the weather permits so that there will be good root growth started before hot weather sets in.

May plantings usually suffer from competition with crab grass and other summer weeds as well as from heat and inadequate moisture. Usually it is best to make a temporary lawn of rye grass where seedings are necessary in late May or during the summer, and then turn this cover under for permanent seeding in early fall.

Grass seed is relatively small and must not be planted deeply. Cover larger seeds such as rye grass and Chewings fescue with soil to provide enough contact with the moist soil for germination and growth. Small seeds such as the bent grasses need only partial covering in moist seasons. You will need 4 pounds of seed for 1,000 square feet of lawn.

Heavier seeding will not make up for poor-quality seed or a poorly prepared seedbed as it merely causes an excess of competition between seedlings.

If possible, use a mechanical spreader. Whether by hand or spreader, sow by dividing the seed and spreading part in one direction, the rest crosswise to the first. This ensures even coverage and lessens the chance of missed spots or wind rows. Rake the seed lightly, or drag a flexible steel doormat over the area. Then roll lightly to firm the seed into the soil. Small lawns may be top-dressed with 1/8 inch or so of screened soil or compost.