Some people choose to use patio statuary to mark beginnings and endings of garden sections, however for some designs this simply will not suffice.

The strongest pattern is probably the so-called "cable" design of tile edgings, but many experts object to this saying that it is a barefaced imitation of something which it never quite succeeds in simulating. In reality it would be a very inappropriate thing if it was made into a permanent feature of the garden. Moreover, these tiles are unflattering when laid in curves.

Generally speaking, the edging tile is something you would do better without. As a substitute for it-which is of greater substance, durability, and stability, combined with lower cost- you may use brick edgings.

Common builder's red brick makes an excellent edging, and can be used in various ways. Laid flat, with its top surface level with the gravel, it becomes the margin of the path and at the same time an efficient barrier to the soil of the border. When used in this way it may be associated with a box edging, as otherwise it may be set on edge to stand about half its width above the gravel and soil.

There is little to choose between these two modes of using it. Another and less familiar method is to use it in the form of a concealed edging. This makes a very neat and unobtrusive edging that is not easily damaged.

When brick is used around curves, it should be laid endwise to the line, using half-bricks. This form of edging is also useful as a division between turf and gravel, as it precludes the need for much labor in trimming the turf edge and at the same time absolutely preserves the original line. When purchasing bricks for edgings you should look for hard, well-burnt ones, either wire-cut or pressed. Molded bricks have a hollow on one side, which makes them unsuitable.

There is, however, a kind of brick which is preferable to the regular rectangular brick, if cost is not an important factor. The 'plinth' brick has one of its edges bevelled, and makes an ideal edging. The price averages about fifteen dollars per thousand, which brings it materially higher in cost than the common brick, but still cheaper than the edging tile.

In areas where stone is abundant and cheap, stone edgings can be used. Stone has the advantage of being available in long lengths, and you can work it in any section desired or you can use it roughly dressed. Sometimes you may be able to buy cheap, old stone paving, which may be turned into an edging with some effort.

Slate has also been suggested for edgings. In places where you can find it cheap, and if used in pieces at least one inch thick, slate is durable and efficient. However, its color is generally unpleasant, and for that reason it is not suitable for a flower garden, but fine for a vegetable garden.

The least expensive kind of edging is common flint. When considering appearance and stability, flint leaves little to be desired. It should be bedded deeply, and each flint should be large. The technique of bleaching flint edgings used in some regions gives them too much prominence; it is not recommended.

When a bed or border needs to be raised above the ground level, the edging can be built up with flints or brickbats. There is nothing particularly special about the flint, besides its abundance and availability. In areas where other natural stone is common, it may be used in rough pieces, the same way as flints.

Wood edgings are the last useful type of artificial edging as a temporary expedient when you want to make your gravel paths before laying the permanent edging. Wood is generally only used in kitchen gardens, for herbs and vegetables because the appearance is unpleasant. The presence of wood in the soil is never recommended because it encourages the growth of fungus.

Unprepared wood is not good for more than two seasons. If you need it to last longer, it must be dressed with a tar solution or creosoted. The best way to secure wood edgings is to nail them to stout square pegs driven firmly into the soil. When putting down edgings of any kind, they should never be allowed to stand higher out of ground than is necessary to form a barrier against rolling earth clods.