Not every house is blessed by ideal surroundings, with promise of easy creation of outdoor recreation and entertainment areas, a good lawn and a good garden. Often it is necessary to undertake a certain amount of construction to insure the quality and life of the gardens you wish to plant and the terraces you wish to build.

The basic construction problem of any landscaping is the grading of the soil. In essence, grading means building a slope (or slopes) into your property. Such slopes assure the proper drainage of water, beautify the aspect of the house and make for easier maintenance. Whether you intend a lawn, a garden or a terrace, grading comes first. Any large waterfalls or other decorative accessories will need to be built around the garding, not vice versa.

The best time to consider grading is when you undertake construction of your house. It is a simple matter to ask for a few additional inches between the entrance level and the ground level. Yet these few inches will insure the easy development of a grade away from the house wall to improve the appearance of your surroundings and obtain a drier basement.

Rough Grading and Drainage

Rough grading is the first step in lawn, garden or terrace construction. The extent of the grading will depend upon the condition of the ground, the desired ground levels and the attention that must be given to extreme slopes. It is important to adhere as closely as possible to natural contours in grading, since this cuts expense considerably. The first step in grading is to strip and separate topsoil from the areas in which the level is to be changed. Even if the grading is for construction of a stone or concrete terrace, saving the topsoil is important.

In this case, spreading the topsoil in areas which are thin, or using it in the flower garden, can save you a good deal of money. Once the topsoil is stripped, the subsoil can be graded to the contours desired; leaving sufficient space for adding the topsoil you have already removed. Remember to plan on a slope. For a lawn, a gentle slope is best, most experts recommending a minimum of 6 inches in slope for every 100 feet in lawn. This same measurement can be effectively applied to stone terraces as well, to prevent the development of pools of water in rainy weather.

Subsoil Drainage for Lawns and Gardens

Where the subsoil is thick or clay-like, it is essential for the well being of the lawn that subsoil drainage be installed. Even in sandy soil, it is a good idea to use subsoil drainage, since it brings about the quick and even distribution of moisture throughout the lawn or garden area. The first problem in drainage is to find an area to receive the flow. If you are on low ground, on to which water from higher areas flows, this run-off area is extremely important.

On high ground, an underground pipe leading out over a slope will be enough. If you are building your own drainage run-off, perhaps the easiest is the dry well. The dry well is nothing more than a pit, 4 to 6 feet in depth and diameter, and filled with rubble and rock. Your dry well should be marked after it is covered, so that you know where it is if water starts to back up on your lawn. Subsoil drainage is best accomplished by the use of tile lines.

The semi-circular lines of tile are laid in the topsoil, about 1½ to 2 feet deep, in lines from 2 to 4 feet apart. The tile lines should be covered with about a foot of cinder or crushed stone before the soil is replaced. The minimum effective grade for tile lines is 3 inches for every 100 feet in length. When backfilling, be sure to put all the subsoil you have removed back in and tamp it down, if necessary. Any slight mound left after restoring topsoil will disappear after the first winter.

Measuring Your Grading

It is very difficult, even for a professional, to measure grades by eye. It is doubly difficult for the amateur. Therefore, if you have a grade to level, use as a guide a piece of twine that is pulled tight between two sticks imbedded in the ground. For leveling, once you have done the rough work, use a long board as a straight edge along the ground to ensure your accuracy.

Grading for Terraces

In leveling an area for a terrace, there is no need to insert subsoil drainage. Save the topsoil. For almost all terraces, it is a good idea to tamp the soil, and even to pour a quantity of gravel cinder or crushed rock as a base. Terraces require a level area as a rule, but the grade sloping away from the house should be maintained.