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Every walkway that is in your garden setting will need to be eighteen inches wide and have grass plots in between. You do not want to make them much wider or narrower, as this can cause a negative effect and not leave enough room for plant beds or artificial features likeoutdoor water features.

If you have a ramp leading to the driveway, it should be no narrower than the overall width of the driveway. It is normally better is the ramp and the driveway do not join, but should be separated by a sidewalk. The narrower part of the ramp should be equal, or slightly wider, than the runways. This creates continuity of the side lines.

The width of the opening at the street curb can vary based upon the local conditions. Be sure to make proper measurements and observations to determine there is enough room for a driver to turn onto the ramp. There should be an eight to six inches minimum clearance and a ten to twelve is the preferred. In laying out a ramp it is well to be liberal so far as service is concerned at the same time remembering aesthetics which demand the least possible display of cement.

To make the ramp pleasing to the eye for ordinary purposes, you will want to make the opening width twelve feet from either direction, and make the throat opening equal to the overall width of the driveway. This creates the most pleasant view from the front, as well as putting the side lines into the most pleasing form for your setting.

The ramp curbs should articulate on easy curves with the street curb. The appearance of the work will be spoiled if there is a bad joint or a sharp angle where the ramp and curb meet. The track of the car as it approaches and enters the grounds is on a curve, so it only makes sense to curve the side lines of the ramp. Wider driveways allow the driver to keep on them while backing out, and curbs won’t be needed to guide.

You can use gravel paths on the edge of a driveway as well as throughout the garden. When using gravel for your paths, the gravel will need to be a good quality. There is some gravel that is better than shingle, having no binding material. This type of gravel will not work, and it cannot create a firm path. Smaller pebbles are not a good idea, because there small stones can make their way into the grass and lawn.

Once you have chosen the design and material, you will want to dig out the soil to a depth of twelve inches, or until you reach a firm bottom. Take this material away. The trench should be filled with rubble, brick rubbish, or some other light material so you create drainage and create a firm foundation.

Over this, you should place a layer of shingle or gravel screenings, about three inches thick. This should be formed with a rake to a curved surface. The gravel can then be spread evenly over the surface to a depth of about two to three inches.

After much watering, the roller goes to work next. The use of water is important during this stage, as it allows for the consolidation of the gravel and keeps it from sticking to the roller. Watch the actions of the roller to decide if you are using too much or too little water.

The roller should have a wave of creamy liquid before it, the mixture of the water and the binding material for the gravel. You will want a rather heavy roller. Once you have a good surface of the path, it needs to sit for at least 24 hours. The best time to make this path is when there is no rain.

There are different types of path surfaces, appealing in different ways. Cinder paths are great for vegetable gardens, but create a bleak look for flower beds. Tar paths are durable when made correctly, but have an unpleasant color and can become rather soft during hot summer months.  There is tar paths created from a stony constituent, probably made of limestone that is not altogether unsightly after the surface layer of tar had disappeared. Remember not to flank these with metal as this causes water to sit at the sides.